I can’t even begin to tell you how often I’ve answered this question about bead finishes. Will it hold up over time? Will it rub off? How do I know?
The answer is: it depends.
Maddening, isn’t it? I agree! But that’s the truth of the matter. There are a ton of different things that affect bead finishes, including:
- How the bead is used? Is it hanging in a tapestry on the wall? Is it in a bracelet where it’s likely to get rubbed a lot? Is it hanging on an earring where it’s less likely to get friction?
- What is it getting exposed to? Chemicals in the air (hair salons are notorious for causing bead finishes to change,) hand sanitizer, and even personal body chemistry can all lead to bead finish problems.
So what’s a beader to do??? Well, for starters, you can test the bead finish you’re curious about before using it. My personal method is to peyote stitch a small band to wear as a ring for a few days. I wear it nonstop and see how it holds up.
Let’s say you’ve fallen in love with a bead finish that’s questionable. Does it mean your love affair is doomed? NO! You can be careful in which project you use it in, AND you can use a protective coating on it once your project is finished. Some protective coatings I like are: Protectaclear, Permalac, and while I haven’t use it, some folks use a clear acrylic spray.
Bead finishes to watch out for:
- Galvanized is the biggest for me. If it’s not labeled permanent galvanized, PermaFinish, or Duracoat, I stay away from plain galvanized finishes. We only carry that finish in Delicas. Why do we carry it, you might ask, if it’s so problematic? Because so many designers use it in their patterns! So if you use one, I’d STRONGLY suggest using a protective coating on it afterward.
- Some of the Czech finishes like Lava Red, Full Amber, etc. are problematic depending mainly on body chemistry. Again, protective coatings are your friends.
I’ve made a couple rings with Miyuki Duracoat seed beads and where them constantly. I have to say I was surprised that the color lasted so well. Both of the rings still have all their color. I was trying to see how long the color lasted and it’s been over 3 months now and still showing blue and silver.
That’s awesome to hear! I’m a big fan of the Duracoat line, so it’s good to get someone else’s experience too.
This information is great and extremely helpful. The closest bead store is 1hr 45 min from my home and her selections leave something to be desired….soooooo, needless to say your input is greatly appreciated! Thanks and have a great day. Aggie
Thank you so much for this information, Jill! I always thought galvanized and permanent galvanized were the same. Very good to know they are different!
They called the finish plain old galvanized before they came up with the more stable version. There’s not a lot of beads out there any longer that don’t use a stabilized galvanized finish, but there are some – especially the Delicas and Czech seed beads.
what protective coating do you recommend? do you carry it?
Thank you for this info.
I mention three in the blog post and any of them works. I don’t carry any of them right now.
My daughter-in-law’s skin reacts with some metals. I made her a bracelet with backlit diamonduos and she brought it back with no color in it at all! It was totally clear. I remade the bracelet and used permalac to coat each new diamonduo (on the flat side of the backlit bead). It doesn’t take long to apply it to the individual beads. I also coated the same flat side of each one after I finished the bracelet. Months later, the bracelet still has all of its color. I do recommend this product. I hope this helps.
Do the coatings make the thread stiff? Wondering how careful I need to be when applying.
If you apply it thickly, yes.
And then there are the metallics that are not labelled as “galvanized” – the good old Miyuki 457 family of bronzes. Nickel plated, pewter, gold (not 24k, just gold). I find these to be durable, more so than the unDuracoated galvanized, which is likely referring to the specific chemical process of galvanizing.
The worst metallic finish I have found is the Czech Labrador coating, which wear off while actually beading. I’ve thrown out Superduos with this finish, as well as druks and other multi-hole beads. They were an expensive lesson to learn.
Two problems I’ve discovered. Duracoating is a glaze/lacquer, and it can clog up holes. I’ve bought 15/0 seed beads (not from Jill) where three-quarters of the tube were unusable because they were clogged. On the Toho side, I have had some opaque Permafinish beads fade/change color, even though they were kept in a dark, enclosed space.
What’s funny is I’ve found the Czech Labrador coating to be very durable for me. And that’s why the answer is “it depends.”
Thanks for this! Very helpful. I have to ask; in your alternate universe are there 48 hrs to a day? You seem to always doing something to help your customers! It truly seems you never rest.
IF ONLY!!!
Thank you Jill. So are you suggesting just duracoat on peyote bracelets. What coating would you put on these bracelets that are already made recently?
Love the blog idea.
No – I’m not suggesting only Duracoat beads at all. I’m just saying SOME finishes are problematic. 90% of bead finishes are completely fine.
I’m so glad I read your blog…..I live in Puerto Rico and it gets very frustrating for me with the constant ocean mist in the air. It’s very hard on beads, tierra cast, wire etc. not to forget the ocean water. Would you happen to have any advise that could help me?
I mention three options in the blog post. Any of them will work.
Well thanks so much Jill. I feel almost famous!! This info was very helpful. I will definitely be making rings and invest in a coating product.
I used the NY State (prison made) free at County facilities-hand sanitizer. After the beaded ring I was wearing lost color I looked at the ingredients.Perixode was in it. Lesson learned. Thanks for this write up.
I had used some gold permacoat beads size 11 and 15 in a bracelet that was a complicated weave. The 15’s held their color well but some of the 11’s lost absolutely all the gold and were white like I’d stitched in a white bead here and there, it was so weird and pretty upsetting because of the time invested in it. I wore it anyway, I knew they were there but I figured someone would have to be looking pretty close to see them. There were round trio beads in shades of pale pink and white so I figured they weren’t as noticeable. The bracelet eventually ended up in the boneyard because the finish on the round trios didn’t hold up to wear either. This was definitely one of those items that should have been coated. I wish they made all the beads out of colored glass instead of applying color on the surface.
Had the old galvanized gold beads (use in early ’90’s) lose their color on woven necklace that were seldom worn. Bought fingernail polish or craft paint and painted them, then spray with a coating without taking necklace apart. They have held up with no problem. Just an idea how to fix without taking it apart. Now I scratch the surface of galvanized beads with a knife to check durability before using.
I do the ring test too! It’s amazing how quickly silver-lined beads lose their silver in a ring, which gets wet and has a lot of friction (the thread rubs on the lining when the beads move). But they are fine in most other uses.
Started beading in New Mexico used a lot of silverlined without a problem. Moved to Ohio and the humidity caused the beads to tarnish. I have given away all silverlined beads. Have a friend who loves them and doesn’t care about them tarnishing in a couple years. I want to pass down my jewelry to granddaughter so don’t use them. If you want them to last longer, keep jewelry in zip lock bag when not wearing to keep moisture out. Obviously, would never use in a ring since they would get damp/wet.
What do you recommend for protective coating? Thank you.
I mention three options in the blog post. Any of them will work.
Thank you, Jill!!!!! You always have such good advice. Thanks for sharing with us!